tools required

To fit your own door you need a few tools so check you that you have the basic tools to start with?

 

tools required
Tools required to fit a door

 

 

  • Hand saw
  • Tape measure
  • Hand or Block plane
  • Chisels
  • Hammer/mallet
  • Drill
  • Flat drill bits
  • Small 3mm or less wood bit
  • Ruler or anything straight to mark a line
  • Set square
  • Pencil
  • Sandpaper
  • Thin gloves
  • Awl

You need to measure the internal door frame to get the correct measurements for the replacement door, there appear to be 3 standard sizes to choose from. The door must be larger than the frame to get a good fit or if you need to shorten it.

My door frame measurement was 1975mm x 765mm x 35mm.

Pic1, New Door, Woburn grain effect pre-primed moulded door
Pic1, New Door, Woburn grain effect pre-primed moulded door

So for this frame,(Pic, 1). I bought a Woburn grain effect pre-primed moulded door 1981mm x 762mm x 35mm that’s 6’6” x 2’6” x 1 3/8” in imperial, trimmable by up to 10mm on all sides.

Pic2, Tired old door needing replacement
Pic2, Tired old door needing replacement

You’ll need to look closely at the old door, does it fit the frame well? are there any large gaps or is the door catching on the frame? If all is okay you could use the door as a template for the new one, if not like mine. (Pic, 2)

Pic3, Unscrew hinges from frame starting at the bottom and leave the topmost screw in top hinge.
Pic3, Unscrew hinges from frame starting at the bottom and leave the topmost screw in top hinge.

(Pic, 3) Remove the handles and latch from the old door and then unscrew the hinges holding the door to the frame leaving a single screw in the topmost hinge, support the door on an angled wedge like a screwdriver or anything that can be shoved under the door to lift it up and support it. And then remove the final screw and lift the door away.

Pic 4, Mark position of hinges 15cm from the top and 23.5 cm from the bottom of the frame.
Pic 4, Mark position of hinges 15cm from the top and 23.5 cm from the bottom of the frame.

With the old door removed, measure and make a pencil mark 15cm from the top of the frame and 23.5cm from the bottom of the frame (Pic, 4), these will be the top and bottom marks for the hinge placement. If yours are the same or need enough you don’t need to do anything more, mine were screwed to the frame and needed to be put on properly. Make a horizontal line across the mark top and bottom with a set square or use the hinge as a guide.

Pic 5, Draw outline around the hinge
Pic 5, Draw outline around the hinge

(Pic, 5) Place the hinges on back to front and level them with the line and draw an outline around the hinge using a pencil, do the same for the bottom hinge.

Pic 6, Cut along pencil line to guide the chisel
Pic 6, Cut along pencil line to guide the chisel

Then using a knife or sharp chisel make a shallow cut the depth of the hinge along the top and bottom and then the side of the marked lines, this will guide the chisel and prevent any wood surrounding the mark from being cut away.(Pic, 6)

Pic 7, Chisel small cuts into the frame at the depth of the hinge plate
Pic 7, Chisel small cuts into the frame at the depth of the hinge plate

(Pic, 7) Now use a chisel to make small cuts to the depth of the hinge, don’t try to take to much of in one go as it’s easy to remove too much wood.

Pic 7.5, chisel out wood and make level to the depth of hinge flap
Pic 7.5, chisel out wood and make level to the depth of hinge flap

(Pic, 7.5)Using just the just the chisel edge and a bit of force you can the smooth the wood out and make it level, check that the hinge fits, run your finger along the face of the wood and check that its flush, if not scrape more wood out and check again until it is smooth and flush with no raised edges.

Pic 8, Mark screw hole positions with pencil or awl
Pic 8, Mark screw hole positions with pencil or awl

(Pic, 8) Once the hinge slots are cut out, place the hinge in the slots and make a mark with an awl or a pencil through the screw holes to mark the screw positions.

Pic 9, Drill hinge screw holes
Pic 9, Drill hinge screw holes

Drill the screw markings with a 3mm or less drill bit (Pic, 9) and fasten the hinges to the frame with 7 or 8 gauge 1 1/4″ screws.

Pic 10, Lock position printed on door top
Pic 10, Lock position printed on door top

Now onto the new door, the door will come with markings indicating the side of the lock block a block of wood on one side of the (Pic, 10), hollow foam filled moulded door it’s the place the latch will be fitted and on a solid wooden door, it wouldn’t matter as the whole door is solid wood.

Pic 11, Mark out the position of the lock block measure twice to be certain
Pic 11, Mark out the position of the lock block measure twice to be certain

(Pic, 11) Read the instructions and find the measurements and mark those onto the door face you as if it was fitted, this door guide stated the lock block position as 880mm from the top of the door and that the lock block dimensions were 360mm high by 80mm deep. These measurements were marked onto the door from the top lock edge.

Next, you need to put the door up against the frame and check how much you need to remove, the door should have a gap of 2mm or the thickness of a 2 pence piece around the top and sides of the door. And 5mm or more from the base of the door to allow for the thickness of the carpet.and it helps to put a mark on the door facing you to remind you of the lock block side if you need to shorten the height, and to make sure to measure correctly as I mistakenly measured the lock block at 800mm instead of 880mm as shown in the photos, fortunately, I corrected that as soon as I noticed.

Hight Width Depth
New door 1981 mm 768 mm 35 mm
Door frame 1975 mm 765 mm 35 mm
Minus difference to fit frame 6 mm 3 mm 0
Minus allowance for door clearance 7 mm

(2mm + 5mm)

4 mm

(2mm + 2mm)

0
Total to remove 13 mm 7 mm 0
Amount removed per side 7.5 mm from top and bottom 3.5 mm per side 0

New door 1981mm x 762mm x 35mm)
Door frame 1975mm x 765mm x 35mm)
6mm too high 3mm too wide
+5mm +4mm equals 13 mm total 7.5 mm from top and bottom. And 3.5 mm from each side.

The new door needs to be 4 mm less wide 2mm on each side, and 2 mm less tall and 5mm from bottom = 7mm

The door was about 3mm – 4mm wider than stated.

Pic 12, Mark out the region to be removed from the top and bottom of the door
Pic 12, Mark out the region to be removed from the top and bottom of the door

(Pic 12) Mark the top of the door with the amount to take away for me that’s 6mm and mark each face and side and draw a guide line all around the top of the door to guide you when sawing and planing. Repeat at the bottom, do the same.

For the sides of the door, I found it easier to use a set-square with 3.5mm of the ruler extended and just held it to the side of the door and slid the set square along the edge while holding a pencil at the tip of the rule.

Pic 13, Saw the top and bottom edges of the door
Pic 13, Saw the top and bottom edges of the door
Pic 14, Plane wood using block plane
Pic 14, Plane wood using block plane

(Pic, 13) Then it’s just a case of trimming the door down to those guidelines, I personally found sawing the door to be difficult and quite exhausting, maybe the saw was a bit blunt? But its hard work by hand, and if removing less than 5mm from an edge its a lot less effort to use a hand plane.(Pic,14)

Pic 15, Place door into frame and lift with wedge or screwdriver to the correct height
Pic 15, Place door into frame and lift with wedge or screwdriver to the correct height

When sawn and planed to the guidelines you need to place the door into the frame and wedge a screwdriver or wedge to lift up the door up to the correct height.(Pic, 15)

Pic 16, Mark position of hinge on the door face
Pic 16, Mark position of hinge on the door face

Then make a mark on the door where the hinges are fixed to the frame, use this as a guide for the hinge placement. Top and bottom.(Pic, 16)

Pic 17, Draw a line around the hinge
Pic 17, Draw a line around the hinge

Take the door down and put it on its side and place a hinge on the edge where it should sit and draw a line around the hinge (Pic,17), again use a knife and score the line of the mark to guide the chisel. and start removing wood from the door same as was done on the frame.

Pic 18, Hinge fits flush
Pic 18, Hinge fits flush

When both hinges are drilled and fit flush to the door (Pic, 18) sandpaper the edges of the door to smooth the sharp edges and coat the edges with a quick dry undercoat/primer. Then its time to hang it, put the wedge under to door and lift the door to the height of the hinge slots on the frame and put one screw in each hinge top and then the bottom.

Then its time to hang it, put the wedge under to door and lift the door to the height of the hinge slots on the frame and put one screw in each hinge top and then the bottom.

Pic 19, Check for an even gap around all edges of the door
Pic 19, Check for an even gap around all edges of the door

(Pic, 19) Open and close the door and check the gap all round is even if it’s catching on the frame or rubbing on the carpet you’ll need to take more off. I found I needed another 5 mm of the height cause it was rubbing on the carpet (the floor slopes a bit).

Pic 20, Draw outline of latch plate and mark the spindle hole
Pic 20, Draw outline of latch plate and mark the spindle hole

Next you need to mark out the position of the latch, use the catch plate on the frame as a guide to place the new latch, close the door and mark the hole in the frame on the door and then line up the latch on the door and mark the top and bottom edge, and then mark the hole in the latch to place the spindle (Pic, 20). Use the set square to set out the lines on both sides of the door, measure the thickness of the door and find the centre and mark it.

Pic 21, Drill out the latch hole, then use a chisel to fit.
Pic 21, Drill out the latch hole, then use a chisel to fit.

Using a flat drill bit the diameter of the latch cylinder, drill a hole into the side (Pic, 21) hold the door and brace your foot against it to hold it steady. Then you need to chisel the round hole out and check if the latch will slide in when it does holding the latch in place draw a guide around the latch face and chisel out the slot for the latch face to sit flush.

Pic 22, Drill the hole for handle spindle from both sides
Pic 22, Drill the hole for handle spindle from both sides

Mark the spindle mark with the awl and then, Drill the spindle hole from both sides of the door to prevent splitting of the door face, use a drill bit slightly larger than the handle spindle diameter.(Pic, 22)

Pic 23, door finished with handles fitted, just kneed's a coat of paint
Pic 23, door finished with handles fitted, just kneed’s a coat of paint

Then fit the latch and handles to the door and you’ve done. (Pic, 23)

This information is provided as is and if in any doubt please use a qualified tradesman.

Wickes (Woburn grain effect pre-primed moulded door 1981mm x 762mm x 35mm) cost £18.00 plus a block plane at £10.00. http://www.wickes.co.uk/

New hinges, screws, latches and handles bought from. http://www.morehandles.co.uk/

7 or 8 gauge 1 1/4″ screws for used for new hinges.

 

A diy amature guide on how to hang an internal door

One thought on “A diy amature guide on how to hang an internal door

  • 2nd March 2017 at 2:42 pm
    Permalink

    Hi Martin
    You have done a grand job with the door looks impressive….pictures too. I might have to enrol you on my next door project, very methodical and detailed. You can instruct and I will be the apprentice ….well done !

    Reply

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